Made-to-measure versus Ready-to-wear?
There is a difference between MTM and RTW - MTM creates a specific pattern that are based on your sizes alone and should not require much alterations once the product arrives and the fitting takes place. Different fabrics behave in different ways as one of the last stages of production involves a lot of moisture being applied to the garment which can result in some shrinkage of the fabric and can alter the original measurements - you, as the client, would not be charged for ANY alterations that are needed if you are to purchase a MTM garment. RTW is just ordering a specific size which is cheaper in all cases than MTM - this garment will then be altered to fit you and alterations will be charged on top of the price of the garment ordered. Our job is to advise you which is more cost effective to do. When the initial consultation is done and measurements are taken off a standard size we can then assess whether it is better to order MTM or RTW - we will always advise which is more cost effective for you and what will result in the better finished garment.
Fully canvassed versus Half canvassed?
The difference between fully canvassed and half canvassed is in the architecture of the suit - Fully canvassed means that the garment has full architecture throughout the entire chest panel and all the way to the hem of the jacket. Half canvassed means less architecture and less work is involved to make this garment - half canvassed is also produced by machine as opposed to full canvassing which is all done by hand. A full canvassed garment will always last longer in terms of keeping the garment the shape that was originally intended - with a half canvassed garment there is less architecture in the suit and once the structure of the fabric breaks down there is less to keep the garment in its original shape and will start to look worn much more quickly and the suit will not stay looking as sharp as long as a fully canvassed garment.
Additional cost involved in making a suit?
There are some variants that can increase/decrease the cost of making a suit - here are some items which should be considered:
Cloth choice can effect the cost of a suit - a better quality fabric can increase the cost of a suit substantially - the price we quote for any type of garment is based on a mid range cloth - price of fabric can vary substantially and in some cases can increase the garment by up to 50% for premium cloths. This is something we can advise as to the reasons for choosing a better cloth and in most cases we try to avoid any unnecessary expense. It really is up to you and once you feel the handle of a cloth you may be seduced into spending more on a better cloth - it really is a matter of choice and preference - there are many really good cloths without having to spend unnecessarily.
Linings - 100% silk is more expensive than a polyester lining. A pure silk lining will add £100 to the cost of a suit.
Braiding - cuff and lapel braiding in a silk or fabric of your choice can add between £50-£150 to a suit.
Button choice - again, this depends on your choice and there are some very beautiful buttons available as options.
How long will it take to make my suit?
Ordinarily 5-7 weeks for both Full and Half Canvassed. There is an express service that will add a surcharge of 40% onto of the price of a standard delivery - this will reduce production down to two and half weeks - sometimes even quicker if we have a deadline to meet - anything is possible.
Styling service - Joe Woolfe has a solid reputation as a stylist to some of the most iconic men on the planet and has years of experience of dressing guys for events, tours and wardrobe management. This will involve sourcing products from different brands and this service is also available to LW clients - so if its the perfect jean you’re after or a simple white t-shirt, a shoe, a top hat or just advice, he is here to help. Maybe you have something that just doesn’t quite fit, we can alter that for you rather than just leave it idol in your wardrobe.
Out of hours appointments - We know that some of you are very time sensitive and we are happy to open the store at odd times to accommodate you or we can visit you in your office, hotel suite or home if that works better for you. Just let us know where and when.